Making Mustards
TweetMustards can be both a great condiment and a simple, rewarding side-project. Unlike some condiments which can be expensive, complex or short-lived, most mustards are a breeze to make, low cost, and virtually indestructable. They are also flexible in a way that may surprise anyone familiar only with ‘plain’ mustards such as English, American and Dijon. Here I show how to make a standard wholegrain mustard as well as flavoured varieties such as Dark Ale and Honey mustard and Spicy Whisky mustard.
Overview
The essential ingredient in any mustard is, of course, the mustard seed. It comes in two basic forms: wholegrain (i.e. just the seed), and powder (i.e. ground seeds). The seeds come in several colours, namely the milder yellow seed and the more potent brown and black seeds. A wholegrain mustard will often mix yellow and brown seeds for balance and visual appeal.
To make the mustard proper, the seed is soaked in a cool or cold liquid, such as water, which kicks off a chemical reaction (between the myrosinase enzyme and glucosilinates present in the seeds) and produces the ‘heat’ of the mustard. The longer the reaction runs the hotter the resulting mustard will be. Vinegar and salt are usually used to control the reaction, and hence heat, and to enhance the flavour.
For wholegrain mustard, the heat-generating reaction will generally take 2-3 days to reach a suitable level and, after blending, the mustard may take several days (and sometimes upto several months) to ‘mature’ to its final taste. With mustard powder, the heat-generating reaction is a lot faster, taking a matter of hours. The powerfully anti-bacterial mustard seed when combined with vinegar and salt will be very resiliant and long-lasting. Note, though, that the addition of short-lived flavour ingredients such as fresh herbs will reduce the shelf-life of the mustard.
Flavours can be introduced in the liquid used, for instance swapping the vinegar for a flavoured variety (white wine, apple cider) or an alcohol (such as whisky or beer) with enough vinegar (or other acid) added to attain and balance the desired heat. Alternatively, or additionally, flavours can be mixed in at the blending stage, for instance adding herbs, seasoning and spices. A sweetener, such as sugar or honey, is often added as well. The combinations which can be made are practically (and perhaps actually) limitless.
Here’s the recipe I used, along with the three variants I made. As I had ran out of black mustard seeds by the time I got to the red wine mustard, I used 4 tbsp yellow mustard seeds instead.
Wholegrain Mustard
A basic wholegrain mustard, from which endless variations can be produced.
- 2 tbsp mustard seeds (yellow)
- 2 tbsp mustard seeds (black)
- 100ml white wine vinegar
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1/2 tsp salt
Mix the mustard seeds and vinegar in a non-metallic bowl. Cover with cling-film and leave to stand for 2-3 days (3 days for a hotter mustard). Check occasionally and add extra vinegar if it has all been absorbed.
Then, drain any excess liquid and set aside. In a mortar and pestle (or blender), blend the seeds into a paste. Blend in the salt and sugar, along with some of the reserved liquid (if required) to get the right consistency.
Decant the resulting mustard into a clean, sterilised jar. Cap and leave to mature for 2 days prior to use.
Dark Ale and Honey Mustard
Replace the white wine vinegar with 100ml of your favourite dark ale, mixed with 2 tsp of white vinegar. Replace the sugar with 1 tsp of honey.
Spicy Whisky Mustard
Replace the white wine vinegar with a mixture of 50ml whisky, 50ml white wine vinegar and 1/2 tsp chilli flakes. Replace the sugar with 1 tsp honey and 1 tsp nutmeg.
Red wine, Rosemary and Thyme Mustard
Replace the white wine vinegar with a mixture of 50ml water, 50ml red wine vinegar, 2 tsp dried thyme and 2 tsp dried rosemary. Use brown sugar in place of normal sugar.
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